Dark beers for the dark season

Although the forecast is calling for snow and bitterly cold weather next week, the days are actually getting longer. We’re halfway through meteorological winter, and dreams of spring fever are not far off. Meanwhile, beer drinkers and fans of craft brewing know that winter is a special season for dark beers that continue to evolve thanks to innovative brewers.

With dozens of microbreweries around the region, the choices are plentiful. We’ve sampled a few of these, and plan to taste the rest in the coming weeks. Indeed, there’s enough to choose from until at least March, when the beer turns green.

As always, a reminder to drink responsibly, and check the ABV (Alcohol by volume) on these drinks – several have almost three times the alcohol content of your average lager. Many are best enjoyed in a flight, alongside other exciting craft brews.

Taproot Brewery

Taproot at Newport Vineyards has several interesting seasonal options. Their Baltic Porter Lager (11.2%) is a bourbon barrel-aged porter with hints of cocoa, vanilla, bourbon, and malt. Taproot’s Barrel Aged Imperial Porter (12%) is a variation made from blueberry, maple, and bourbon barrel-aged imperial porter. Both Imperials, originally brewed for Russian nobility in the 18th century, are meant to be sipped slowly, and enjoyed on the darkest of nights.

For something completely different, try Taproot’s White Stout, a collab with Empire Coffee with notes of vanilla and mocha. Also, check out the BOAT, a Barrel Aged Oatmeal porter with notes of sweet molasses. Taproot is currently open Wednesday – Sunday and returns to seven days a week with dining on February 17.

Narragansett Brewery

A new addition to the Narragansett taproom lineup honors the late President Jimmy Carter, who is widely considered the father of craft brewing since decriminalizing home brewing during his term in office. The Peanut Farmer Porter (5%) is a rich, flavorful peanut butter blended brew with notes of chocolate and espresso.

Also on tap, the traditional English Porter (5%) brewed with malt and hops from the UK, with notes of chocolate, toasted bread and a hint of brown sugar. Gansett has also brought back their high-end Barrel Aged Big Dumb Stout (12%), brewed with dark malts and featuring notes of chocolate, toffee, and molasses. The brewery is open six days a week, closed on Tuesdays for the winter season.

Pivotal Brewing

I stopped Pivotal Brewing recently on the heels of their announcement that they are expanding into the former Salvation Café in Newport. The tasting room in Bristol offers a nice selection, including a pair of delicious stouts. I ordered a flight that included Pouring Velvet (3.9%), a milk stout with notes of dark chocolate and mocha that goes down smooth, a solid porter for everyday drinking.

I also took home a bottle of Morning Indulgence (11%), a collaboration that includes Basil and Bunny Raspberry MMMBop-tarts. Indulgence is a complex stout made with raspberries, Ghanaian cacao nibs, and hand-split Madagascar vanilla beans, a flavor that comes through in the blend. It tastes like something from the chocolate aisle at your favorite confectionary – pretty intense, but certainly worthy as a dessert beer.

Rejects Beer Co.

Rejects Beer Company in Middletown serves and cans several leading seasonal brews. If you love beer with a little heat, seek out the Mole Stout (6.5%), a rich, spicy American stout made with Cocoa, Cinnamon, and Chipotle Peppers that are sure to spice up a cold winter evening. It’s a “destination beer,” and one of my favorites during the winter months. Surprisingly spicey, you may need to follow it with a lager to cool down.

Rejects is also pouring a smooth Winter Ale (7%), a hoppy, dark, red ale with a malty, fruity finish, with a portion of every purchase supporting Friends Of Newport Skatepark. The brewery is open Wednesday-Sunday.

Ragged Island Brewery

Among the seasonal offerings at Ragged Island in Portsmouth, the Smoked Dark Lager (6.4%) is a popular seasonal choice, described as a smokey malt, with hints of dark bread and raisin, slightly roasty with moderate carbonation.

Also worth checking out, the Custom House Coffee Stout (5%), a collaboration with Custom House in Middletown with chocolate malts blending with cold brew coffee styles, notes of sweet malt and bitter cacao followed by a clean roasted coffee finish. Ragged Island Brewery is open daily from Noon-9PM.

Proclamation Ale Company

Proclamation has several seasonal brews on tap and available to go. Stay Dark All Day with Proc’s Smoked Czech Dark Lager (4.9%), a well-balanced brew that goes down smooth with light chocolate and coffee notes and a hint of smoke.

Also worth tasting is Pieces or Peases (9.5% ABV), an imperial stout made with chocolate, peanut butter, and lactose, as well as the smore-like Dripping in the Strange Design, an Imperial stout with chocolate, marshmallow, caramel, and lactose. Both of the above qualify as dessert beers if you are so inclined. Proclamation is open Wed-Sun, check the website here for hours.

Newport Craft Brewing and Distilling

The Taproom at Newport Craft is loaded with seasonal specials. On a recent visit, we sampled a few, including Inattention to Detail, (10%) a heavy Imperial Stout meant to be sipped slowly, and not for the faint of heart. I also enjoyed a couple of red beers, the Gangster Duck (6.3), originally brewed by Radiant Pig was moderately light and smokey, more refreshing as opposed to the heavier options, while the Scarlet Knight (9.3) was the smoothest high-alcohol brew I’ve tasted in a while, very tasty and not too complex, so good, I took home a four pack! Newport Craft is open seven days a week, check the website for hours.

Lifestyle Editor Ken Abrams writes about music, the arts and more for What'sUpNewp. He is also an Editor and Writer for Hey Rhody Media. Ken DJ's "The Kingston Coffeehouse," a roots/folk/rock radio show every Tuesday, 6-9 PM on WRIU 90.3 FM. He is a former educator in the Scituate, RI school system where he taught Social Studies for over 30 years. He is on the board of the Rhode Island Folk Festival and Newport Live (formerly Common Fence Music), a non-profit that brings diverse musical acts to...