Despite the unseasonably warm weather this November, the typical growing season in Rhode Island is drawing to a close. Many produce-selling farm stands hibernate for the winter, just as their Christmas tree farm counterparts prepare for the upcoming holidays. This does not mean, however, that it is impossible to buy fresh and local produce. It simply takes a bit more time and care to find the farm stands that are still quietly open throughout the state, providing seasonal or green-house grown products to in-the-know locals.
Such is the case with Goodwin Bros. farm stand. Located in North Smithfield, and nestled between acres of protected wildlife land and school buildings, the description of its seemingly remote location – especially for Aquidneck Islanders – belies its popularity and involvement with the local community. Those who have driven past the farm will recognize it from its iconic pumpkin houses out front. Those who stop inside will be greeted with bushels of apples, hundreds of pounds of squash, cider, honey, fresh produce like tomatoes, beets, and leafy greens, and goods from collaborations with other farms – the popular Wright’s Dairy Farm has their milks in stock at Goodwin Bros., for example. As for the regulars, they will find a warm welcome and warmer conversations with the famer and his family, if they are helping to man the stand. The farm becomes a fresh hub for the community in an era where groceries are shipped across the country and interactions with cashiers can be clinical.
The welcoming, community-first ideology is deeply rooted in the mission of the farm. The 80-acre property itself has been traced back to the 1600s, Josh Goodwin explains, one of the members of the Goodwin family who runs the farm. For his family, they try to keep the farm and its produce as accessible as possible, he says. This means they are open seven days a week in the peak market season, and they attempt to stay open seasonally for as long as possible – from Mother’s Day to Thanksgiving. “Not all farms can do that,” Goodwin recognizes, and he credits his family and the entire farm team for being able to service the community this way.
Sweet corn is what the farm is known for from mid-July through mid-October, and their apples – freshly plucked from their orchard – is another big draw in the fall. For November and the “last hurrah” of the growing season, the secret is in the winter squash. Acorn, honeynut, Delicata, butternut, and even sweet dumpling squash are among those mounded in large bins. The sweet dumpling variety is unique to Goodwin Bros. With its nutty flavor and thin, delicate skin (especially for a winter squash), the sweet dumpling is good to roast whole or for stuffing; the thin skin means it is easier to cut through and prepare than most other squashes, says Goodwin.
As of Monday, November 11, the farm is having a squash and pumpkin sale. All visitors who are interested in buying squash will be given a large paper bag and will be allowed to fill it with as many butternut, acorn, and spaghetti squash or sugar pumpkins the bag with hold without breaking. The sale costs twenty dollars for the bag, and it will last until the farm is out of squash or until the close of their season on November 25.
The hallmark of winter squash – that thick, tough skin – is what lends its importance to winter agriculture and food stores. Mature squashes can be stored for months in a root cellar, becoming an important staple food for people who lived without the convenience of refrigeration.
Squash, including those important winter varieties, has also played a significant role in agriculture and cultural history. November is Native American Heritage Month, and for many Native American tribes and First Nations peoples, squash was an incredibly important food source. The fruit was highly storable, nutritious in vitamins and minerals, and provided key ground cover with its big leaves that helped in a style of agriculture called companion planting.
Companion planting is the practice of growing several different types of plants together to increase crop productivity. Native Americas used corn (maize)and beans as companion plants for squash. The squash leaves create shade that helped keep weeds down and keep the soil moist; corn provides a tall structure for the climbing beans. And the beans put nitrogen back into the soil to fertilize the corn and the squash. Together, these three crops – as well as this particular planting technique – are known as the Three Sisters. After the harvest, the three crops have been traditionally combined to create the classic Three Sisters Soup.
There are many, many different types of Three Sisters Soup recipes. Some embrace a summer harvest and use summer squash and zucchini. Others stick towards celebrating the fall and focus on varieties of winter squash. As long as the three sisters are together, there is no one way or wrong way to create this soup. For my recipe, I used honeynut and sweet dumpling squash from Goodwin Bros. farm stand to create a hearty, autumn-oriented, savory soup, but of course this can be adapted for others’ tastebud needs.
Three Sisters Soup Recipe:
Ingredients:
Olive oil
1 onion
4 garlic cloves
2 honeynut squash
2 sweet dumpling squash
1 ½ – 2 c. corn
1 can black beans
1 can chickpeas
1 can diced tomatoes
2 carrots
2 celery stalks
1-2 jalapeño peppers
Salt
Pepper
2 tsp. thyme
2 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. smoked paprika
2 tsp. cumin
2 bay leaves
7 c. vegetable broth
Pumpkin seeds
Cilantro
Instructions:
- Dice the onion, carrots, and celery. Heat olive oil in a large soup pot, and sauté the diced vegetables until softened. Add in minced garlic and cook for one to two minutes.
- Peel and dice the honeynut squash, scooping out its seeds. Dice and de-seed the sweet dumpling squash. Add the squash and all the spices into the soup pot, stirring until the diced squash are evenly coated with the toasting spices.
- Dice the jalapeños, then add the peppers, tomatoes, and broth to the pot. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer for eight to ten minutes.
- Lower the heat to medium or medium-low, and add in beans, corn, and the bay leaves. Cover, and simmer the soup for an extra twenty to thirty minutes, or until the squash is fork-tender.
- If the soup is too thick and more stew-like, feel free to add in more broth as needed. Otherwise, serve and garnish with a generous handful of pumpkin seeds and fresh cilantro.
