September 22 is the first day of autumn this year, and already the days are cooler and nights require layers to ward off the chill. The shift in season also marks the transition from summer fruits and vegetables to autumnal bounties. It is about time to say goodbye to tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons, and welcome some of the last warm-season vegetables: winter squash.
Ironically, even though “winter squash” has winter in the name, they are considered a warm-season vegetable. These types of vegetables are planted outdoors after the last chance of frost in spring; they are most easily damaged by cold temperatures – especially as seedlings – and the seeds cannot germinate in the cold. Squash are harvested in the autumn, usually between late September and early October, and they are ripe when the leaves on the vines start to wither, the rind is hard, and the squash are a deep, solid color. Although they have an “early” harvest period, winter squash get their moniker from their storability. Many winter squash varieties can be stored in a root cellar for six months, though according to the University of Illinois, smaller, more delicate varieties of squash like acorn and butternut only last up to three months in storage.
White acorn squash has made its first appearance in Rhode Island, and one place to find a freshly picked squash of this variety is at Tockwotton Farm in North Kingstown. A family-run farm since the 1790s, it has deep ties to Rhode Island history and the surrounding area, Bart Madison explains, owner of the Tockwotton Farm property. The Madison family managed the Ives-Goddard-Russell estate on Potowomut Neck, now known as Goddard Park. Through inheritance, the parcel of land now known as Tockwotton Farm became Madison family property. Originally, the farm was known as Tockwotton Jersey Farms Inc., and operated as one of the largest dairy farms in Rhode Island. In the 1960s, it was converted to a horse farm, and in the ‘70s the farm grew vegetables. Madison bought the farm from his parents in 1998.
Ten years ago, Madison’s son and daughter-in-law, Matt and Kyla Madison, “revitalized” the farm, Bart Madison says. The farm stand is active, selling produce like tomatoes, cucumbers, and garlic, and drivers can find the stand by following the cheerful signs posted along the road. The farm also has an active CSA program that includes featured produce, information about the product, recipe ideas, and the occasional “perk” like the farm’s branded Grumpy’s Honey or Grumpy’s Maple Syrup. The CSA program also includes a members-only night on the farm with farm-to-table community meal and the chance to meet the Madison family beyond the stand.
The Madison’s are active in the community. Kyla’s daughter, Ryleigh, sells curated flower bouquets one weekend each year to raise money for the Tomorrow Fund. She started the effort in memory of her grandmother, and has continued to sell the bouquets in memory of other special persons, like her great-grandfather and a five-year-old family friend who passed away from cancer. Buyers should check the farm’s Facebook page for updates on the stand, products sold, and stand hours.
When the stand first opens after the Fourth of July, a Tockwotton specialty is the unique 8-ball summer squash. They offer both a carnivorous and vegetarian way to stuff the squash for a meal on laminated recipe cards, if you ask. Now, in September, when the white acorn squash is ripe, the family experiments with sweet and savory recipes for the autumn fruit. “My son quartered them [the squash], put a little bit of brown sugar, maple syrup, and cinnamon on them. He put them on the grill – on the Blackstone – and roasted them. They were to die for,” says Bart Madison. Other ways the family enjoys fresh acorn squash is stuffing it with sausage and apples, or slicing the squash into thin rings and roasting it.
Unable to resist the idea of a big, hearty, warm, family-style shareable meal, I decided to make acorn squash Bolognese. The recipe inspiration comes from Joshua McFadden’s James Beard award-winning book “Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables.” Filling, and with a warm spice, this dish pairs perfectly with boots, chunky sweaters, a chilly night, and good company.
Acorn Squash Bolognese Recipe:
Ingredients:
1 ½ lbs. ground meatloaf mix (pork, veal, beef)
3 white acorn squash
Olive oil
Salt
Black pepper
1 Tbsp. and 2 tsp. curry
1 tsp. cinnamon
2 tsp. turmeric
3 celery sticks
2 small onions
3 carrots
1 ¼ c. dry white wine
1 ¼ c. milk
20 fresh sage leaves
Freshly grate Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Instructions:
- Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees and line a large baking pan with parchment paper for easy cleanup. Cut the stemmed tops off the acorn squash and place them cut side down on a cutting board. Vertically half the squash and use a spoon to de-seed them. Then, drizzle olive oil into the “bowls” of each squash and season with some salt, pepper, and the two teaspoons of curry. Spread the olive oil and spices around using a rubber brush or simply combine the two halves of each squash pair and rotate well. Put the squash halves cut side down and roast until fork-tender for about 25 minutes.
- Let the squash cool, then scrape the flesh into the food processor. Blend into a smooth puree, then add more pepper, curry, cinnamon, and turmeric. Stir well, and transfer the puree into a medium skillet and cook over medium-low to low until the puree has lost a lot of its water, like a tomato paste.
- Meanwhile, heat a small bit of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the ground meat, breaking up large chunks, and cook until the meat is no longer pink. Do not brown the meat so there won’t be any crusty bits. Remove the meat from the pan when fully cooked.
- Add the onion, celery and carrot to the skillet, and season with many twists of pepper. This cannot be emphasized enough. Use a lot of pepper. Cook until the vegetables have softened and fragrant.
- While the vegetables cook, bring a large pot of water to a boil, and make pasta. Any type of long pasta will work, though spaghetti, linguine, or fettucine are classics.
- Return the meat to the skillet and add the wine. Simmer until the wine has cooked down into a small amount of liquid. Then, fold in the squash puree and milk. Stir constantly while everything simmers and the flavors meld together, about five to ten minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust the spices as needed. Serve over cooked pasta and lots of grated Parmigiano. A glass of leftover white wine with the meal also serves well.
